Swimming with Dolphins in New Zealand (Dusky Dolphins like Christmas Carols)

I wrote this in 2016 or 2017 during the two years I lived in New Zealand. Some details — prices, hours, what’s open — may have changed, but the experience and my love for this place haven’t.

If you take the ferry to the South Island you’ll leave Wellington and arrive in the town of Picton. Picton is relatively small with just over 4,000 people and sits at the top of the South Island on the edge of the stunning Marlborough Sounds.

We didn’t actually plan to spend time in Picton — no offense to the town but it wasn’t on our radar. But we picked up a brochure on the ferry that advertised swimming with dolphins. And that sounded awesome, so plans changed.

We settled on E-Ko Tours in Picton. We did a bit of searching online before booking and liked what we saw — they’re the only dolphin swimming operator in Picton, they take out no more than 15 people at a time, and they have the highest environmental certifications available. The tour was booked online.

We arrived at E-Ko at the appropriate time. They give you wetsuits, snorkels, masks, and everything else you need, and do a quick orientation before you get on the boat. On the boat, your job is to help look out for dolphins as the captain drives around the Marlborough Sounds to find them. We drove around for a good hour, checking out the known hot spots and anxiously looking. At one point everyone was starting to think this was going to be one of those trips where the dolphins just didn’t want to be found — and then someone yelled, the boat slowed down, and a Hector’s dolphin was spotted, which led to another with a calf.

Hector’s dolphins are the smallest and rarest dolphin in the world. And for several reasons including not wanting to disturb the baby, swimming with them wasn’t an option. But we were able to watch them for a while and ooh and aah about how small they were.

After that we were off again — visiting some bird nesting sites and exploring the Sounds until another dolphin group was spotted. This time they were Dusky dolphins and our swim was on. The captain told us to suit up and get ready to get in the water, so a bit of chaos ensued while everyone zipped up their wetsuits, got masks and snorkels in place, and prepared to climb in.

The boat pulled up in front of where it looked like the dolphins were heading and the captain told us to get in. Crazy suited tourists of all nationalities then climbed down the ladders and did as we’d been told in the orientation — laid flat in the water with heads down and started singing in our snorkels. Apparently the dolphins are attracted to odd noises and singing snorkelers definitely qualifies.

Within a minute or two of us getting in the water the dolphins found us. They swam between us, under us, and around us — close enough that you could feel the water displace as they moved. It was amazing. My partner was laughing so loudly in his snorkel that you could hear him through the water.

I of course, being the data geek that I am, had to experiment. I chose to sing Christmas carols as it was that time of year. I determined that Silent Night was just not their thing — but Away in a Manger did the trick.

After a few minutes the dolphins tired of us and moved on. We got back in the boat and tried again. A few minutes later the captain made the call and we were back in the water with another group of swimming dolphins. This one didn’t last as long but was equally incredible and my hypothesis on Away in a Manger held true.

When they tired of us this last time it was back in the boat with hot coffee, tea, hot chocolate, and biscuits, and back to land we went.

If you’re passing through Picton — and if you take the ferry you will be — do not get back on the highway without checking E-Ko Tours first. It is one of the best things I did in New Zealand.